🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.